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presents the development of signal acquisition and analysis equipment for the measurement of sewing parameters on a high-speed overlock sewing machine. The objective of the work was to provide investigators of the textile area with hardware and software to ease the investigation on the dynamical behaviour of the following sewing parameters: force on needle bar; and presser-foot and thread tensions. It should also have enough flexibility to incorporate further signal entries, and provide the user with tools to ease the gathering and analysis of tests on different materials, sewing speeds and machine configurations and settings. Outputs for actuators to implement closed-loop control strategies are also available. The paper presents an overview of the system, which is a development of earlier hardware and software and focuses on the results concerning the measurement of the force on the needle-bar; this parameter is important to investigate needle penetration force in fabrics during sewing. Several signal-processing algorithms, that aim to automate the detection of some characteristics, are described. The purpose of this system, that implements some novel strategies, is to develop an add-on kit to apply to different sewing machines, but presently it has been implemented on a PC as a quality assessment system which will be used by textile technicians to build a quality database
During high-speed sewing, several parameters are important for a good performance of the process. Measuring and analysing their behaviour during the sewing process can lead to a better understanding of the process, to the establishment of rules for correct setting of the machines and ultimately to a system which will be able to automatically set itself according to the different materials having the correct feedback to do so.
Thread tension on the different sewing threads: the correct balance between them, as well as the correct amount of thread tension are very important for the stitch formation; Presser-foot force variations: One of the common sewing problems encountered in high-speed sewing is the bouncing of the presser-foot due to the feeding system, causing contact loss between the material and the presser-foot, which will result in an irregular stitch; Force on the needle bar: This parameter is of utmost importance, because this signal enables the determination of the necessary force for the needle to penetrate the material. Excessive needle penetration forces cause yam breaks, which will lower the seam's quality and also its strength. Due to the great variety of materials used presently, to the irregularity of some of their structures and difficult physical properties of some yams, it is very important for the apparel manufacturer to evaluate which needle or which limit to the sewing speed should be used. It is a task to be performed prior to the actual production.
